Pruning roses is essential for achieving beautiful blooms and maintaining the health of the plant. Whether you grow roses for decoration, grafting, or sale, timely and proper pruning is crucial. Plants that are not pruned are prone to rotting. Rotten plant parts become entry points for harmful microorganisms, worsening the plant’s condition. Compared to pruned roses, unpruned roses generally produce smaller and less attractive flowers.
The process of pruning is quite simple and does not require many tools or materials. Basic gardening shears and some plastic wrap or soap are usually sufficient to get the job done.
Why Prune Roses?
To fully understand pruning, it is necessary to comprehend how it affects the plant. Nutrients circulate through the plant, and the larger the plant, the greater its nutrient requirements. Several factors influence the amount of nutrients a plant can produce, such as cold soil slowing water flow, cloudy weather hindering photosynthesis, and heat or drought drawing significant water from the plant.
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Plants frequently face stress due to nutrient deficiencies, leading to wilting. To survive, plants sacrifice non-essential processes like flowering and parts that require more nutrients than they produce. You might notice dried leaves and branches on your rose, indicating inefficiency in those plant parts.
Rotting results from plant injuries and subsequent infection. Unlike wilting, where the plant can manage its stress, rot forces the plant to use additional resources to combat the infection, paying a significant price. Even if the plant recovers, it may still sacrifice parts to survive, risking another infection and perpetuating a damaging cycle.
The goal of growing roses is to obtain beautiful blooms and planting material that can be proudly displayed or sold. Pruning can effectively address these issues by directing nutrients to where they are most needed, ensuring the plant’s survival and producing excellent flowers.
When to Prune Roses?
In continental regions, roses are pruned during two periods: fall and spring. Each has its pros and cons, so understanding them is key to helping your plants thrive.
- Fall Pruning: Less common due to the risk of recovery after pruning. The fluctuating temperatures can cause freezing of the fresh cuts. Additionally, pests and diseases may seek winter shelter in the plant’s wounds. Protecting roses from winter and infections must be impeccable. Fall pruning is done from October to November.
- Spring Pruning: More popular as the risk of freezing wounds is significantly lower, though still present. Sudden frost or temperature drops are brief compared to the prolonged cold of winter. Spring pruning is performed from February to March.
How to Prune Different Types of Roses
- Bush Roses: Start by cutting off all dry and rotten parts. Make the cut 1 – 2 inch (2 – 5 cm) below the rotten or infected area. Remove branches growing towards the center to allow more sunlight. Make the cut one inch (2,5 cm) above a bud that looks like it will receive enough light. Bush roses can tolerate pruning of both the main stem and branches.
- Climbing Roses: These have a single main stem that continuously extends, producing flowers on side branches. Prune using the same principles as for bush roses, but avoid cutting the main stem unless space constraints, shading, or severe infection necessitate it.
- Standard Roses: These are a mix of bush and climbing forms, with one main stem supporting a branched crown. Prune the crown similarly to bush roses, cutting 1 – 2 inch (2 – 5 cm) below any damage and one inch (2,5 cm) above healthy buds.
Pruning Old Roses
Old roses, those blooming for over twenty years, gradually lose strength. Like aging humans, parts of the plant function less effectively over time. Unlike humans, these parts can be removed to promote new, healthier growth. Rejuvenation involves inspecting the stem and noting the number and arrangement of buds. Each year, shorten the stem by three buds, regardless of whether it has flowering branches.
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New shoots from remaining buds indicate whether the process is effective. Poor or small flowers suggest removing another three buds next season. Gradual pruning is preferable to cutting the entire plant to the ground. Only prune to the ground in extreme cases of severe drying or disease.
Post-Pruning Care
After pruning, protect the cuts. Water contacting fresh wounds often contains microorganisms, and pests like aphids quickly infest fresh plant sap. While the wound will eventually heal, the risk of infection remains. Cover wounds with plastic wrap or antibacterial soap to repel water and block pests. After healing, remove the wrap, and the soap will wash away over time.
After pruning and protecting, fertilize the plant. Nitrogen, potassium, and calcium accelerate wound healing and are commonly available. Use liquid or water-soluble fertilizers for foliage plants, mixing them with water for weekly application. Applying compost and mulch is also beneficial.
What to Do with Pruned Branches?
Pruned branches can often be used as cuttings for grafting. If a cutting has five or more buds, it can be planted with a good chance of taking root. Plant so that at least three buds are in the substrate to form roots. Cover the plant’s above-ground part with a jar for protection. Rooting agents can enhance the chances of successful rooting. This method can produce new rose plants or grafting stocks. Short branches can provide buds for grafting.
By following these guidelines, you can ensure your roses remain healthy and produce beautiful blooms year after year. Happy gardening!
Photo: Freepik